Home Energy Improvements

 For Climate Change 

 

Things we can do to plan for the weather changes, power shortages and crop failures. Suggestions which can help save money during summer heat waves and winter cold waves. While some of these suggestions are for home owners, there are recommendations in here which you can do even if you are renting or leasing a home such as placing insulation around water pipes and heavy shades in windows to block out solar heat or heavy drapes to keep out cold, gardens, canning and other things your landlord may permit…. so there are things in this article which can apply to everyone including commercial & gov't buildings. You will also need to decide which items are applicable in your situation since homes have a variety of styles and designs.

 

Improve Roofing         Insulated  window replacement 
Green Roofing Satellite Dish & Antennas
Water Water Heating alternatives
Gray water Water pipe insulation
Septic Food Shortage Planning
Flooring Precautions & Inspections
Fireplace Getting off the utility grid
Fire Building Trees & Landscaping
Energy Savings Underground habitat
Patio shade Insulation Precaution
Vehicles Weather stripping
Money Window coverings
Relocation Solar Energy
FEMA Wind Energy
Comments Attic Fans
Chemtrails Attic insulation
Orbital Mirrors Insulated Doors

 

See cautions about roofing, info on attic inspections and wiring at the bottom of this article.

 

Green Roofing

Best for flat top roofs but the roof must be able to withstand the weight. This should never be attempted without consulting a structural engineer and other related experts. The green roofs suggested by the UK and Canada are an excellent idea but need accurate engineering and structural support and proper loading distribution of weight to be accomplished.

There are quite a few rural homes in the UK with peaked roofs which are covered in heavy moss over a foot thick. One example is a village near the Spencer estate and Althorpe, England where numerous homes built over 800 years ago still use this thick moss roof covering. Early US pioneers also used sod roofs. 

The UK government has a lot of survival planning info in their pamphlets which include info on Green Roofs as well as problems and precautions needed to do this successfully. This is a PDF file link. You will need Adobe Acrobat reader to open it.

https://www.gov.uk/government/topics/climate-change


Other Roofing Suggestions

Light colored roofs have been suggested. While white is the best heat reflector, it also stains very easily and quickly starts to look cheap and ratty. A stained white roof will become a darker roof and less reflective. Beige or gray or a mix might be better aesthetically. Something durable like a 35 or 40 year shingles but don’t buy Corning… their tiles tear like paper. You want something to withstand wind. I prefer Tamko myself. Elk would be a second choice. Don’t use staples, it will weaken your tiles and they will break off. Also be sure to replace the tarpaper underlayment and inspect the roof for damage and replace or add any flashing or new vents as needed before doing the roofing tiles. Add additional downspouts for overflow areas on your rain gutter system. You don’t want any water backups leaking under your tiles. This is especially important for multi level roofs and flat roofs. Be sure to inspect your roof from inside the attic for leaks you may not have noticed, but do so carefully. Do not step on the ceiling because you will fall through it. It is better to use planks across the ceiling studs to better distribute your weight safely.

When you install those new shingles on your roof, you Must REMOVE the clear plastic strips from the back of each roofing shingle. This allows it to adhere to the shingle below it as the sun warms the shingles. It will prevent your roofing shingles from lifting up in high winds (and is also another reason you want heavy, longer life tiles). The plastic strips are on the shingles for only one reason... to keep the shingles from sticking together while bundled.

Do NOT believe ANY roofing contractor who tells you the plastic strips on the roofing shingles do not need to be removed. Demand it anyway or hire someone else. Make sure the removal of plastic strips is IN WRITING on your installation contract and sales receipts and Agreements so they don't add an extra fee for this. This is very important!  Every contractor I have met either lies about it because they are lazy or because they don’t know any better or they are deliberately skipping this important procedure in order to create return business after every high wind storm … but as an engineer, I can tell you this for a fact. My last two houses were both the only homes in the neighborhoods with the plastic strips removed. When high winds between 60 and 100 mph occurred on several occasions, it was the ONLY house where the roofing shingles do not lift up in the wind. We have had hurricane remnants which severely damaged the roofs on every home in the neighborhood except for mine.

If you leave the plastic on, your tiles will lift up in the strong wind like the fluttering of shuffling cards thus causing your roofing shingles to break and become damaged. So from experience… I share this with you since no one else seems to be doing so. 


Anchoring satellite dishes & antennas

I also recommend extra heavy anchoring of anything that might be affected in high winds. With the changing global weather, strong winds are inevitable. Items such as satellite dishes, antennas and other items need strong anchors and bracing and you cannot depend on the installer having done so. They usually only do the bare minimum unless you make special arrangements. They wont guarantee roof mounted dishes in winds above 60 mph. Big storms will easily produce gusts to exceed that wind speed. Get involved. Don't expect things to be done automatically. Few contractors ever do more than the minimum requirements unless specifically asked and agreed to in writing, in advance.


Attic Fans

This is also a good time to add extra turbines and automatic fans to your attic. We use a combination of both. Turbines and attic fans are a big help in reducing the incredibly high temperatures which occur in attics  during warm weather. The fans will reduce your cooling bills.


Getting off the Grid

After Katrina, I would not want to depend on the gov’t’s help on anything. Things we can expect are loss of electricity, water rationing and high prices. It would be advisable for us to go off the grid and become self sufficient where we don't have to depend on any city services. This would be better achieved by living in the country rather than in a city. 

Installing solar panels or windmills (windmills may have some ordinance or HOA prohibitions due to noise) are the best way to get off of the power grid. 


Solar Energy

You would need to have an expert check your roof to verify if your roof is strong enough for solar panels. There are many different types of solar panels. Some are solar cells, some are evacuated panels, some use heated copper tubing, etc. Perhaps a combination of both. Another option is to install solar panels mounted at ground level instead of on top of your house. 

I am considering the thin solar cells with one evacuated cell with copper tubing for hot water. By adding more evacuated copper tube cells, I could also use it for baseboard hot water heating. In my case, I'm a power systems engineer (among other things) and I know how to engineer, build and safely maintain a DC plant and AC inverter. 

Here is one site you can look at to get an idea. There are many other sites you can find on the internet. 

http://www.evsolar.com/pricelist.html


Wind Energy

Most of the time, if you install these, the power company will buy back your excess power if you connect to the grid. If all the customers of an electrical cooperative had these alternate energy systems connected to the grid, the coop might not need to buy any fuel… but you can also do this on your own and have a generator handy as well in case weather is not favorable. Be sure to do research on the products, the cost, maintenance, durability, lifespan of the products and check out your electric providers policies and the ordinances in your area. 


Trees and Landscape

Trees are important. Fast growing trees with a lot of shade and hardy to droughts. Be sure to research the plants which are best for hot summers and cold winters. Don’t go by your normal climate ratings because these are rapidly changing. Trees can help shade your home and reduce heat. Even better if the trees are fruit, berry or nut trees because they can provide food even though they tend to be messy. Other plants such as shrubs and other plants will help and you can also do some drainage landscaping to help with floods and water run off. You can do french drains, gravel and dry wells for excess water or recycle and store the runoff for watering trees but don’t use it for the house. Do not use water run off from the roof of your house because most roofing materials contain toxic mixtures.


Planning for Food Shortages

Gardens and canning will be a must to build up food. Not only for planning ahead on the impending crop failures and reducing your food bills, but for avoiding the bacteria contaminated produce industry. You can do this with small yards and raised boxes or roof top in urban areas if loading weights permit.


Insulated Windows

Some of the best things you can do to keep your homes warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer would be changing out your windows (and glass doors) to Anderson or Pella Low E, tinted composite frames and a solar reflective coating. Metal frames sweat. Vinyl frames sag and wood frames rot… so the composite is a combination of vinyl over wood. We have them and they are not only fantastic in reducing energy costs, they reduce noise significantly and glare as well. Then buy some solar screening for the outside. You can get an 80% solar screen, tough enough for pets. These really help a lot in the summer. You can do the screens yourself and save a ton of money.


Insulated Doors

You can also change out your doors with something like a Stanley Metal-solid core door which have all types of fancy designs and weather sealed glass. Get prehung doors with excellent weather seals. 


Insulation precautions

Stay away from styrofoam insulation. It emits a toxic gas. 


Attic Insulation

Adding blown in insulation in the attic is a must and is not that expensive. Do not attempt to start this project in hot or warm weather. The heat in any attic can become insufferable and deadly. In the fall or winter when it is below 60F degrees would be best. 

Use the shredded paper type. Don’t use fiberglass and remember to read a good book on insulation so you will know about vapor barriers. You can rent the blowers from the home improvement centers when you buy the bales of insulation. This takes 2 people. One to quickly load the bales into the hopper and the other in the attic with the blower hose. Both will need to have a strong back and arms. Do not have a child filling the hopper. Even if it is a teenager. The hopper is VERY dangerous with spinning moving parts which can rip an arm out of a socket or cause death. Both of these jobs should be done by grown adults who are strong enough and careful enough to perform the job safely.

You should also use a set of two way radios so you can communicate. Everyone involved should also wear a dust mask and protective goggles and protective clothing. If noisy enough, you may also have to consider hearing protection. You'll have to throw away your clothes if you handle fiberglass. It will get into your washer and on all your wash loads thereafter... ruining everything following that load.

You should use strong planks to walk in the attic so you wont fall through the ceiling. Do NOT lay anything on top of any electrical wiring. If you compress, pinch or damage the wiring, it will overheat and start a fire. That includes excessively tight staples holding the wire down. The electrical wiring in the attic should not have any exposed wirenuts, damaged insulation, exposed wires, open conduit boxes, etc. All damages and unsafe conditions should be corrected by an expert who knows how to safely handle electrical wiring. Never touch or handle exposed wiring. Never trust wiring to be safe to handle even if you have turned off the breaker... you may have turned off the wrong one. Never assume breaker box fuses are properly marked.

You will need to prepare the attic before beginning this venture. Vented covers for lights, exhaust fans, etc., to prevent fire hazards from overheating. Please check with a reliable book or internet source on how to properly protect these. Many ceiling lights  in your house are not rated for contact with insulation and will cause a fire. Flood lights are the worst for this, but even seemingly safe ceiling lights are fire hazards if a bulb is too high in wattage (this happens a lot) or if the light has a sealed glass cover which retains the heat. You can reduce this heat by using screw type florescent bulbs. I recommend replacing the sealed ceiling lights in the house with lights which hang down on chains. Then all you would have to protect is the electrical wiring and not have to worry about the heat.  For any ceiling lights such as in the bathrooms, we box ours in with a screen vent to keep the insulation away from them and replaced all light fixtures with those rated for insulation and thermal shut offs… but we still put in a box to prevent contact. The vent screen on the ceiling light box in the attic is very important and should never be covered with insulation.

Also check for leaks in the roof (especially around fans, vents or anything which protrudes through the roof. Look for separation of roofing joists, soot from a fireplace chimney or duct, central heating & air ducts which need replacement (These should be insulated as well with an approved, safe product (you don't want to breathe fiberglass. but you don't want to start a fire by using inappropriate materials and non-heat approved duct tapes on your heating ducts. It is critical to properly protect, insulate and safeguard your ducts before you add the attic insulation.

You will also need to have adequate lighting in the attic so you can see what you are doing. We use fluorescent bulbs in ours.

If you do not have an attic entry with a pull-down ladder opening, you should consider having one installed. (These are too heavy & cumbersome  to do by yourself).

If you get the vapor barriers incorrect, you can cause rot damage and impede the purpose of the insulation. The blown in insulation can be bought at Home Depot or Lowes and you can rent the machine. Be sure to figure the amount you need and understand how it works… Hire someone if you are not comfortable with this project... but remember, you need to make sure all of the heat producing lights and ducts, etc are all properly prepared before this project begins. Do not take someone's word for it unless you trust them implicitly.  Never assume anything.

Fixtures also have a lot of air gaps which can be dealt with but the same precaution on using anything with light fixtures which get hot. 


Affordable Energy Savings

Fluorescent lights are a big help to energy reduction. They are no longer like the flickering tubes. We have them inside and out. They have also have spot lights, bug lights and candlestick fluorescents for those special needs. But don’t use them with dimmers.


Hot water

Using the tubing type of solar panels can supply you with hot water and baseboard heat. The other way to heat the house is with solar electricity… but I would recommend getting away from any type of gas or fossil fuel before they bankrupt you and you cannot get supplies. By the time you realize you are in trouble, you won’t be able to find replacement units because everyone else will have waited until the last moment to change.


Water pipe insulation

Be sure to insulate all of your exposed water pipes. Both hot and cold pipes. There is a foam insulation you can buy at the local Lowes, etc which will slip around the pipes. It keeps your pipes from freezing and lowers the loss of heat from your hot water pipes.


Water

Water is the next problem. A report today said we will start running out of water by 2020. A shame they don’t consider desalinization plants. There will be plenty of water when the ice melts and floods the coastlines, however it will quickly become toxic after flooding cities, vehicles, factories, mines, fuel tanks, toxic sites, etc. For those of us who can’t depend on the gov’t’s help and if we live in the country (another recommendation if possible. An acre of land will be a boon for your family.) Where possible, a water well will be a lifeline. If a well is not possible, then consider some type of large gravity tank storage or cisterns for extra water capacity when you need it. This will help with a garden as well when they put you on rationing like they did here.


Septic

There are also new types of septic systems which spray the water onto the yard… but I am not yet convinced of the safety of the bacteria in that water. Our government can't even guarantee safe food products or safe medicines... let alone septic bacteria. A septic system will allow you to be independent of public sewage services and costs. There is one very important thing to remember on any septic system.... NEVER, NEVER use any type of chlorine bleach when you have a septic system. A teaspoon of Clorox will kill all of the bacteria in your septic tank. If you do not have bacteria, the solids in your tank will not break down into liquids and you will end up having to have your septic tank pumped. A properly maintained septic system where you feed the tank with a septic tank product every month, will never need to be pumped... But you also cannot flush or put anything into the toilets or drains which will not break down such as condoms, paper towels, drain openers, etc. Always check your toilet cleaners, laundry products and anything else going into your drains for safe use with a septic tank. Don't pour old medicines in the toilet. Anything which kills bacteria will kill your septic tank... then it will fill up with solids and your leach lines will end up flooding your yard with sewage water.


Gray Water

Gray Water is used water which does not contain sewage such as water from your bathtub, shower, sinks or washing machines. A lot of states and local government agencies consider the use of gray water to be illegal. A load on a septic tank could be reduced by running gray water into a dry well pit if it is legal in your area. Some gray water might be reused to water gardens... such as water from baths and showers, but you have to be very careful not to introduce bacteria into your fruit and vegetables. This is a reason why so many food products from Mexico are contaminated with E-coli and Salmonella.  Using contaminated sewer water causes bacterial contaminated food products. Melons, strawberries and any ground vegetable or fruit are the worst sources of contaminants due to the water they absorb and from lying on the contaminated soil.


Weather stripping

Weather stripping around windows, doors, behind AC outlets and light switches can save a lot of money on heating. A foam insulation rope can be bought in coils and used between floors and baseboards and sealing air gaps under your sinks where the plumbing comes through. 


Window coverings

Levolor and other brands make several types of blinds for your windows. The cellular blinds do the best on keeping down drafts, reducing heating costs and can be bought with heavy light blocking which can keep the house dark in the daytime, reducing cooling costs. 

Heavy drapes will help keep out drafts and heat from the sunlight which can help reduce heating and cooling costs.

For substantial window insulation from drafts for those who cannot afford to replace windows or when living in rentals, etc., there is a product which looks like a roll of clear saran wrap plastic which can be bought to fit each window. It consists of a double sided sticky tape which goes around the entire perimeter of the window or even a sliding glass door. Then the thin, plastic film is cut to fit the entire window and adhered to the perimeter tape so the entire opening is completely covered. Then the product I am familiar with instructs you to use a blow dryer to shrink the plastic tightly across the window. This makes the plastic nice and clear like glass so you can see out. Once applied to a window or sliding door, you won't be able to open them until you remove the product. Once you remove it, you would have to replace it. The tape which comes with this product usually comes off nicely but you can use goo gone to remove any residue. Warning: If you seal up your house like this where you can't open the windows, and you have natural gas, propane, coal, oil, kerosene or any other fuel which burns to create heat, hot water or cooking.... you must have a carbon dioxide detector with fresh batteries. You could be in grave danger of asphyxiation. Only an all-electric house with no gas or fuels would be safe from CO2. I almost died in a house with a wall furnace. Don't ever take any chances with those kinds of heating and cooking systems. Always have a working detector properly mounted in your home, tested regularly for fresh batteries.


Flooring

When replacing flooring, make sure you have your vapor barriers in the correct location. As with an attic, an improper vapor barrier in the wrong position can cause wood rot. 

Inexpensive no wax flooring can actually be warmer and a better barrier than an expensive tile or stone floor. Be very careful on the type of glues and materials your installers use. No matter where you live, insist on glues with no solvents which comply with California standards. Every company has the glues which comply with those standards no matter what state you live in. They may complain and whine but insist on checking the MSDS sheet for the glue before they can use it. Your installers can order the glue. If they don't want to cooperate, tell them you will take your business elsewhere. You don't need to be breathing toxic carcinogens for the rest of your life.

Carpets will definitely improve the warmth in a house but you don't want a carpet which produces lint or strands which catch and pull up. Check carpets the same way as you do the flooring. Check the materials your carpet is made out of and the dyes. Make sure each strand is individually anchored... not a chain loop strand. Check the padding and carpet for hypo-allergenic and non fume producing. If it has a chemical odor, get another brand. Research it on the internet for safe product content. Make a list of every ingredient and look each chemical up on Wikipedia to start. 


Fireplaces

Fireplaces can become a source of heat and even cooking if we end up losing our power and fuel sources. Fireplaces can also be very dangerous for many reasons. A duct chimney leaking soot and heat into the attic can cause a fire. Burning pine and other high sap wood can allow tar to build up in the chimney and can catch fire. Don't use a dirty chimney which is improperly sealed and vented. Cracks in the fireplace... especially in the firebrick lining is a dangerous situation. Don't use a damaged fireplace. 

I use glass & brass doors with the screens when using a fireplace. Never install carpet too close to a fireplace. Those ashes and coals can pop out a long way. As with any heating or cooking appliance which uses flame and fuel, you need to have a source of fresh air to avoid CO2 which has no odor and can kill an entire family in a very short time without anyone realizing there is a problem.

Heatilators are much more efficient in warming the room. Although glass and brass doors are beautiful, they don't seal the huge air leak. A fireplace is a source of drafts even with the damper closed. We built a fitted door to seal the fireplace when it is not in use. It comes right out if we want to build a fire. 

When using a fireplace, it amazed me how many people do not know how to properly build a fire. Some people go so crazy building a fire so large, the flames actually flare above the damper into the chimney... a good way to burn down your house and start a chimney fire. The previous owners of my house had built a fire so large it actually melted the heavy iron rack and damaged the firebrick. Never leave a fire or children unsupervised.

Most chimney's look like they are brick but if you go up into your attic, you will see it is nothing more than a metal flue with a brick facade on the roof and base but exposed in the attic. It also surprised me how many people think you can throw any piece of junk or trash into the fireplace. Most items will create toxic fumes. Wood is not that expensive if you buy it from a reputable firewood dealer and not from a store. You need to burn hardwoods which are properly seasoned... or at the very least, in times where we are fending without utilities, deadwood which doesn't have any chemicals in it. But keep in mind, fireplace smoke really pollutes the air. Solar heating is a much better choice.


Correct way to build a fire for newbies

To build a fire the correct way, start with a clean fireplace not one overflowing with ash. A good fire needs airflow. You start by placing small, dry kindling on the bottom of the rack. Sticks and special made kindling which will quickly catch fire. You need enough to make a nest under the wood. Then place a couple pieces of smaller firewood on top of the kindling. The large log goes on top of that in the center. Don't over stack the log rack. Don't use any combustible fluids. It is not a charcoal grill.

Open the damper before lighting the fireplace. Use a flashlight if you need to check it. Write down the handle position if you have trouble remembering open and closed positions. Do not light the fireplace if you are running any vent fans in the attic, bathrooms or kitchen. Turn off ALL fans or you will have INSTANT SMOKE filling your house. If you don't have a gas igniter in the fireplace, wad up 3 or 4 plain papers (no ink, no plastic) and place them on the bottom of the fireplace... directly under the kindling and logs. Use a long fireplace match to light the paper.  If it has trouble catching, add a couple more pieces of wadded paper under the rack to catch the kindling. It is the coals which warm the house. You do not need to keep the fire flaming high. Carefully add a log as the firewood burns down. Don't haphazardly lob the log onto the coals because you will have hot coals and burning embers flying everywhere. Always keep the fire screen closed. Coals stay hot for a long time and are often hidden inside the ash, so don't remove the ash until the fireplace has completely cooled.


Shading outdoor areas

You can also use shade covers for your porch and deck or you can use larger, greenhouse style shade cloths for larger areas and you can buy them with various percentages of solar shading, custom size and custom ways to attach and support it. Nursery suppliers sell these rather inexpensively. One of the more interesting uses of screening was used in Ft Lauderdale, Florida. Many homes have their entire backyards screened in like giant aviaries. Some are one story tall, some screens are two stories high. A novel idea but definitely expensive even if you built it yourself.


Relocation

If you live by the coast or below 300 ft elevation which will flood as the sea levels rise from melting polar ice, you might want to consider moving to higher ground before the sea levels start to rise since you will have a heck of a time selling your property after the fact or finding a new place to live. 

Every government website I have been on has talked about the rising sea levels as an unavoidable problem. So it is not IF the sea levels rise…. it is a matter of WHEN. They originally said it would not melt until 2070 or 2100. The Chronicle Herald of Halifax, Nova Scotia Canada ran an article (Aug 19, 2007) that all of the ice will be melted by 2030. CNN report in Aug 2007 said scientist believed all polar ice would be melted by 2020. CNN reported first week of July 2008 that all ice in the arctic would be melted by Sept 2008. That is a heck of an acceleration in the melting rates from what our governments were telling us.

 Frankly, I don’t think we have that long. I am leaning more toward 2010 - 2013 as the total meltdown… and the seas will have started rising long before that. Some of our coastal states are already complaining about losing 3 feet per year.

For the question on the best places to live….. a higher altitude above 300 ft away from coastal areas and rising sea levels… keeping in mind, when the sea levels rise… so do the river, lakes and creek levels. A country home with a basement and an acre of land or more will help you sustain your family.


Underground habitat

If you are lucky enough to have a basement and are not in a low lying area or in a flood zone, you are one step ahead of the rest of us, because those of us who do not have basements may find ourselves digging as fast as we can in before we know it. 

Temperatures underground can be best regulated at a constant temperature with less energy. And with the wild tornadic storms, rising temps in the summer and freezing in the winter… we may find underground as our only refuge…. 

Underground fruit cellars used to be popular before electricity and storage of home canned foods. but we’ll have to plan for it on our own and start digging if the conditions get to such extremes where we need to survive… and we can’t expect any government to help us. 

Back to the old underground shelters of the 1950’s… if we get to the point where we need to start digging.


Vehicles

Vehicles will be another issue. With the loss of all the TX & LA coastal oil companies and plants and loss of factories around the world, they may not be able to process any fuel... so after a month or less, following a global catastrophe, your car will become a big paperweight.  An interesting thing to note about hydrogen fuel is how they are allowing the oil companies to control hydrogen production and the pricing. They are actually using a very expensive process to extract hydrogen from oil. This is so absurd it is unfathomable. 

Water H2O is 2 parts HYDROGEN and 1 part Oxygen. As I remember from physics, it only requires a bit of electrolysis to extract the Hydrogen. A CLEAN, pollution-free, cheap process. In fact, it would be an easy design to design a vehicle where you pour in distilled water in one tank and pump it through an electrolytic extractor to separate the hydrogen to run the car. The waste product would be Oxygen. 

The oil industry stranglehold on our country has to be one of the most egregious abuses of cronyism I have ever seen. Not surprising considering the oil company jackals are involved. The American public is being raped by the oil companies and their paid puppets running the country. 

There are at least 2 other ways to run an electric car while generating a perpetual charge when it is in motion. Small turbines or design the wheels with a similar power winding and commutators which would work like the large generators at a hydroelectric plant... where the water rushing through the dam turns and powers the generators.... the wheels in motion on a car can do the same thing so there is no reason the car cannot continually charge itself while in motion.... similar to the process your alternator does. When the car is not in motion, a few of those thin, flexible solar cells on the roof will keep it charged. You wouldn't need your engine or your exhaust system or your coolant or your gas tanks. Batteries would have plenty of room. You could convert any car to this design. Batteries come in different sizes and types. You can now get batteries which do not contain liquid acid. There are gel cells made with heavy steel casing... made for phone offices in a wide variety of sizes and capacity. Newer technology has batteries on postage stamp sized, paper RFID's... so we are not limited to our standard lead car batteries and with perpetual charging, you would not require as much battery capacity to run a vehicle.


Money

 

Should the worst happen and things get really bad….. there is one other concern….. money. It is not inconceivable that government income, social security, pensions, disability, etc… will be forfeited by the governments and corporations… not to mention medical insurances and medicare. Be prepared for them all to bail out leaving millions in the lurch.  Money will be worthless. Food, water, ammunition & weapons will be the new commodities to trade.


Chemtrails:

 

I do know that there is a huge effort seeding the clouds and doing chem trails… although I would not recommend breathing it… and you might want to protect your gardens from it. I had heard rumors about it but was able to confirm it when I found the State of Texas licensing people performing weather modification and seeding.


Orbital Mirrors:

 

Then here is another idea NASA had about using orbital mirrors around the planet. I suspect they did not consider our eyesight when they came up with this one:
 
http://home.swipnet.se/allez/Eng/SpaceMirrors.htm


Precautions & Inspections:

 

Caution: If you are contemplating a change in roofing, it is very important to consider the weight and structural support and consult an engineer if you are making significant changes in weight, roofing materials, weight distribution or any structural issues before proceeding. You can cause serious structural damage or cause supports or walls to collapse if you make changes your structure is not designed to handle. You should also do a full inspection of the roofing joists to ensure you are not having any separation or slippage or splitting or rotten wood. And it would also be a good idea to take a look in your attic at fireplace chimneys, lighting, fans, wiring, vents, etc. Black soot around your chimney is a bad sign of leakage and fires too hot or too much tar from using Pine. Problems like could cause a fire in your attic and should be further inspected by an expert before using it again. Electrical wiring should not be pinched, hot, melted, scorched, charred, chewed by rodents, etc. Some people have used a staple gun to attach wiring. This is bad as it can cause compression, overheating and exposure of the bare wire at that location. There are insulated staples specially designed for electrical wiring which is tapped in with a hammer, not a staple gun. Be sure to always turn off breakers before doing anything with electrical wiring. You can buy a lighted test plug for a few dollars to check an outlet. Also, aluminum wiring is a very bad thing to have. I’m a EE engineer…. don’t let anyone tell you different. It takes a larger gauge aluminum wire to handle the same current on a copper wire. But the worst problem are the AC outlets. If an AC outlet is not specifically rated for aluminum, the metals in the outlet react differently than the aluminum wire and will cause overheating in the outlet and fires. It can cause overheating in outlets farther down the circuit. I have seen aluminum wiring installed by expert electricians and pass building inspection which were not using the right gauge or outlets. So when the homeowner turned on a light or plugged in a vacuum in one room, an AC outlet across the house in another room became searing hot. Hot enough to cause 2nd degree burns when her toddler bumped into it. The wrong outlet was used by the electrician. My advice is to remove and replace all aluminum wiring with proper gauge copper (it’s better to go larger than smaller). And make sure all of the outlets are rated for the type of wiring you are using. Same with the breaker box. Make sure your breakers are in good functioning order and that they are appropriate for the wiring, gauge and current.  Again, I caution, never handle or work on any electrical wiring or connection unless the breakers are turned off and if you don’t know what you are doing… have a qualified electrician do it for you. 

Look for similar problems of overheating, damage, etc., around lighting fixtures which might be overheating or other problems. Rats and mice are a real issue because they can damage wiring and cause fires and attract rat snakes.


FEMA

When things get really bad, the crooks in charge will all be living in the underground facilities and tunnels with ample supplies and reserves they built with the money they stole from our tax dollars. They've already discarded their old underground shelters they built across the country for the fancy underground facilities & connecting tunnels for the elite and corrupt. The rest of us will be left to fend on our own or starving under martial law without food, medicine, water or other necessities. Sound like a joke to you? Remember Katrina? That was just a dry run. 

I used to be a member of the Emergency management team for one of the largest metro areas in the US along with FEMA & Red Cross who also attended the monthly meetings. 

There were no plans for rescues, feeding victims, shelters, medical or anything else. Their focus was on "Contain & control". We were instructed to shut off the phone systems both wireless and landline to everyone except the pre-designated FEMA and city workers. It takes less than 5 minutes to switch the service away from the public. Law enforcement and troops would be assigned to blockade the cities from anyone entering or leaving.  You'll have less than an hour to get out of the city areas before all of the blockades are in place. 

The troops would be told there was danger of spreading contamination, disease or possible terrorists or still on the loose or other dangerous conditions... to give them justification for what they are doing. People inside the blockaded area would be herded into large convention centers and corralled by armed troops indefinitely with no supplies. If you think about it... remember how Katrina FEMA did not help the victims, did not provide rescues or provide supplies or transportation? Remember how the hospitals were left abandoned and the victims dying at the airport and the people without food, water or sanitation restrained by troops? Supplies from Walmart and other places were turned away by FEMA. How the communications antenna for St Bernard Parish was torn down in the middle of the night by FEMA, cutting off their communication to the outside world? If you remember, it took buses sent from Texas and shelters set up by Texas and other states to rescue those victims who were still alive in New Orleans after many days of suffering. FEMA and the Red Cross did nothing until after Texas rescued them.

I told people about this as far back as the mid 1990's and no one believed me until Katrina.... right down the line, everything occurred there as I had described many years earlier. Even though I was right, even I could not believe they actually carried through with it on hurricane victims. Notice how Florida refused help from FEMA? Once you call FEMA in, they completely control your state and city governments and no one can countermand anything FEMA does. Read some of Bush's Executive Orders he signed. Read how much power FEMA has over this country. He has placed them next in line for power over the cabinet, Congress, the Justice Dept, Senate and even over the military and media. This is no joke. Under martial law, FEMA can conscript citizens into work gangs or force them into military service against their will. FEMA can shut down and control all TV & Radio. FEMA controls the military, local governments, you name it. The Red Cross works side by side with FEMA and carries out their agenda. Ever wonder why they would not go into disaster areas. They claimed there were no services and facilities for them so they located in Baton Rouge and in Mississippi, they were 15 miles away from the disaster areas.... when they knew people had no cars, no homes, no food, no water... that is the whole idea of disaster relief. You take the necessities to the victims... not the other way around. This was all in the preplanning. If you notice, the state of Florida had water and supplies located within the disaster areas within a couple hours after the disasters and provided shelters and any other assistance needed. When the President's own brother refused the help of FEMA.... that should tell you something. You should listen because once you find out the hard way, it will be too late.

Next time you have some free time, you need to read these executive orders because it gets even worse.

If that is how hurricane and flood victims are treated... just imagine what will happen when entire cities and coastlines start to flood. It would be more advantageous for the gov't to get rid of the victims than to provide sustenance, aid, rescues and relocation of tens of millions of victims. Think about it. This is one nightmare you had better give serious thought to... because you can guarantee the gov't has already written you off as expendable burdens.


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Other items to consider are heating & cooling, water wells, cisterns, Wall insulation,  bulk foods, crop seeds, greenhouse, raised boxes,  Communications, medical needs, transportation, storage, security, protection, etc.

 

Now that I have shared all of this doom and gloom…. just try to stay ahead of the problems by doing the small things you can afford and save money and start gardens and improve things as you can. Don’t try to do it all at once just do what you will need at least 6 months to a year in advance but don’t wait until it is too far gone to do something because everyone else will go into a panic mode and there won’t be any supplies.

Try to get yourself off the grid if you can. A lot of us around here are getting ready to install solar panels. Nearly everyone I know is doing so just to get away from the high prices and control of the energy companies. Be sure to stock up on food and water and other daily necessities. Just take it one step at a time.